Duncan's blog

January 13, 2014

Places to eat and drink in Zagreb

Filed under: Food — duncan @ 11:00 pm
Tags: , , , , ,
Latte with a straw!

Latte with a straw!

A brief list of some decent places we ate and drank at during a week’s holiday in Zagreb recently.  A few general thoughts firstly:

Zagreb has a lot of cafés (1901 according to this blog) and we only went to a handful of them.  However most places seemed to do similar coffees, and we only went to a couple of places that did the sort of coffee I was hoping to find.  In general the lattes were slightly sweet, served very frothy in tall glasses, and once even with a straw!

Also most places seemed to be both cafe and bar, unlike the typical coffee shops in the UK.  So I saw people drinking coffees well into the evening, and on the other hand having beers early in the morning… in the same type of venues.

In the city centre a lot of cafes are geared up for large groups sitting outside in all weathers.  Meaning in winter covered heated seating areas, with additional blankets.  Croatia hasn’t introduced a smoking ban yet, so some places were unpleasantly smoky inside.  A few had separate smoking rooms, but still the smell permeates the whole venue.

In the restaurants there was usually a good selection of foods at reasonable prices, and some very nice Croatian wines.

Eli’s Caffe

Ilica 63, 10000 Zagreb (map)

This was one of two places that I went to which did what I’d consider a proper coffee.  They had a mission statement on the wall, with credit to Norwegian Tim Wendelboe.  They’re four-times Croatian barista champion, so know what they’re doing.  It’s quite small, and it’s no smoking.  Recommended.

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Website

Dream Coffee & Wine Bar

Frankopanska 1, 10000 Zagreb (map)

And this was the second place we found doing good coffees.  More of a wine bar than anything else, but as with everywhere else in Zagreb, people seeming to enjoy coffees well into the evening.

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Agava

Ulica Ivana Tkalčića 39, 10000 Zagreb (map)

We came across this place by chance on our first night, but were lucky to get a table as they ended up turning away lots of people who hadn’t booked.  Had a really good Dalmatian red wine, Korlat Syrah.

Website

Pod Gričkim Topom

Zakmardijeve stube 5, 10000 Zagreb (map)

This little restaurant is on the hill between the old and new towns, just down a few steps from the top of the funicular.  They had a large covered outdoor area which seemed warm enough to sit out, although we went indoors.  They didn’t have a printed menu (at lunch time anyway); just specials chalked up on a board, which I took as a good sign.  Letters of endorsement from Hillary Clinton and a Director General of NATO.  It’s name means ‘under the Grič gun, which is a cannon on the nearby tower which fires a deafening shot at 12 noon daily; watch out if you’re in the area!

Website

Velvet

Dežmanova ulica 9, 10000 Zagreb (map)

A nice little cafe doing soups, sandwiches and cakes, with walls lined with books.

Website

Trilogija

Kamenita 5, 10000 Zagreb (map)

A good restaurant up in the old town next door to the stone gate.  We got two different tasting menus (one meat, one fish), all daily-changing specials based on what the chef has picked up from the nearby Dolac market in the morning.   Our waiter was a lot of fun.

Website

Bistro Karlo

Gundulićeva 16, 10000 Zagreb (map)

Doing a similar dinner menu as Trilogija, with a choice of two different 4-course menus, one mainly meat, the other mainly fish.  Not quite as good I’d say, but generous quantities.

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Boban

Ulica Ljudevita Gaja 9, 10000 Zagreb (map)

A large basement Italian restaurant, with big portions.  Owned by Croatian footballer Zvonimir Boban.

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Website

Cušpajz

Ulica Ljudevita Gaja 9, 10000 Zagreb (map)

This is a little cafe doing just traditional Croatian soup.  It’s next door to Boban, and is owned by Zvonimir Boban’s wife.  They had two soups when we went there, one vegetarian (tomato), but we got the other, which had a huge medley of ingredients.  Very nicely presented, large bowlful.

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Apetit

Masarykova 18 (Obrtnički prolaz 7), 10000 Zagreb (map)

A big smart restaurant, with an impressive selection of wines.

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Bottles of Pétrus – I don’t think they actually had these on their wine list!

Website

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3 Comments »

  1. And for Cevapcici I think the market in Osaljska street is great, even in late hours: http://askan.biz/2014/04/17/market-in-osaljska-street-zagreb-croatia/

    Comment by Askan — May 21, 2014 @ 3:07 pm | Reply

  2. […] of the decent coffee shops we visited, similarly to how I’ve done it before with New York and Zagreb. This is far from comprehensive; we only went to a few cities, and didn’t try specifically to […]

    Pingback by New Zealand and Australian coffee shops | Duncan's blog — November 8, 2014 @ 11:16 pm | Reply

  3. […] a recent trip to Bristol, in keeping with previous articles on coffee shops in Dublin, New York, Zagreb and  New Zealand and Australia, I thought I’d do a write-up for some cafés we went […]

    Pingback by Bristol coffee shops | Duncan's blog — January 5, 2015 @ 8:01 am | Reply


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